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Alexander McQueen Final Collection


Written by Sophie Cullinane
Photos and illustrations by
21 Sunday 21st March 2010
Four weeks after the designer's death, McQueen's design team unveiled his 80% completed collection and with a moment of true poignancy, reminded everyone that "each piece was unique, as he was".
It was as if, for a moment, Alexander McQueen had come back to life. As the models entered the grand Paris courtroom to an audience of friends and editors his spirit was alive in a truly extraordinary showcase of the late Mcqueen's talent. This collection, though tinged with regret and sorrow, ran like an homage to all that McQueen was in life; fierce, uncompromising and one of the greatest talents of our generation.
Gone was the forward looking futurism of his October 2009 show. This collection was all about looking back to Byzantine art and the medieval. It was also steeped in religious iconography. Fabrics which were poignantly adorned with hand jacquard angels translated into regal caped gowns and short volume dresses. Present too was something of the violence which McQueen courted in fashion, with the muscular coursetry and models whose sculls were tightly wrapped and adorned in a Mohican of feathers.
Dresses which were hung directly on the models from a single bolt of fabric spoke volumes of the tailoring brilliance of the man who was lost too soon. Perhaps most beautiful were the layered chiffon dresses cut with deep V's that spoke of tranquility, royalty and above all of angels.
The collection ran as if to reference all of the defining moments in his career, the rebellious punk, the romantic and the tailor. For me the most beautiful and the most poignant was the muscular jacket made entirely from golden feathers which exploded into a heavily embroidered tulle underskirt. It brought to mind his Icarus collection of 1996, his first couture collection at Givenchy, only now his line seemed more pronounced and clear as though a fog had been lifted. This collection was exquisite in its precision from beginning to end, and it only serves as a reminder of all the the fashion world has to grieve in this monumental loss.


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