LFW: Nothing Fresh?


27 Monday 27th September 2010
With London and New York Fashion Weeks at an end, it could be said that none of the designers came up with anything particularly fresh and new. Instead, many opted to recreate styles of the 70s and 50s, throwing in a modern twist. Despite the clothes still being stunning and inspiring, haven’t we seen it all before? Isn’t it about time they came up with a new trend instead of doing what has already been done? Don’t Panic look at the key trends coming through at this September's fashion weeks, and how most of them are just recycled styles from previous decades.
70s Style
SS11 girls are being warped back to the 1970s, we’re not only talking flares but all aspects of 70s fashion being thrown into the mix. Hannah Marshall and Richard Nichol played with Pleats, adding movement and texture to dresses, tops and sleeves. Topshop Unique featured models with massive frizzy hair, a look synonymous with 70s style. Also featuring major flares, acid wash jeans and micro shorts. Started by Marc Jacobs at New York Fashion Week with his 70s inspired throwback. Big Hair, bright make-up and a kaleidoscope of colours, a spectator of the show said that the first thing they thought of when they saw the collection was “Jodie Foster in Taxi Driver 1976”. Designers this season seem obsessed with a 70s revival, but it’s nothing new, 70s fashion has made a number of comebacks throughout the Noughties. Guys, maybe its time to grow a Tom Selleck moustache and get out your flares. Disco Divas are back in fashion.
It has been suggested that fashion recycles itself in 20year periods, but when are we going to break free of this endless rut? Perhaps designers are being nostalgic about more exciting time in fashion when they were growing up. Or maybe they are bored of the jeggings and skinny jeans style of recent years and feel the need to start widening the cut of trousers once again.
Bohemian Style
The fashion pack was split at Septembers Fashion Weeks between 70s disco style and bohemian fashion. Even the neutral palettes of the 90s were coming back, it seems that trends are coming back into fashion quicker than they go out. Matthew Williamson said the inspiration for his collection was an “Urban Bohemian” which features cropped jackets, mini skirts and floaty floor lengths dresses. Sienna and Savannah Miller have taken inspiration from Mexico in the Fifties, this translated into a youthful and bohemian collection of skirts with ruffled petticoats. Nice. But been done. Firstly by the Bohemians of the 70s, then the rah-rah skirt made a comeback in the 80s and in the 1990s the term ‘hippie-chic’ was coined and applied to Tom Ford’s collection for Gucci. Tom Ford recently said he “wants fashion to be fun again, like it was in the 60s”. No Tom, we want something new and exciting for this generation please. In this decade Kate Moss and Sienna Miller have been associated with this ‘boho-chic’, so its no surprise Twenty8Twelve have recreated this style in their SS11 collection.
Biker and Aviator Jackets
Bailey stacked his Burberry collection with classic quilted and Biker jackets paved with studs and spikes. There was nothing particularly fresh about these jackets, but one thing he did do was cross-bread the biker jacket with the classic trench, creating a hybrid coat. It could be said that these staple jackets will always be in fashion. After all if you spend the best part of two grand on a Burberry coat, you don’t want it to only last one season. The Aviator is a big trend for this AW as you may have noticed. This too is nothing new and was seen on the aviator-wearing icon Amelia Earhart in the 1930s. Everyone from Acne to Burberry are jumping on the aviator trend and Christopher Bailey told American Vogue he really “wants to continue the feel of the aviator collection”, looking at 30s and 40s colonial uniforms.
Fashion has reinvented almost every decade of the 20th Century. Soon they will run out of eras to recreate, perhaps next will be the 19th Century Victorian elaborate gowns and bodices, top hats and gaiters.

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